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Chile de Novo

Chile is an angler’s paradise.  I’ve been fly fishing in South America for over twenty years, and almost always based out of Michael and Myrna Darland’s “Yan-Kee-Way” Lodge in Ensenada, Chile. It’s been one of my favorite “winter-escape” destinations over the years.

Nicole Darland ran a travel company that has allowed us to fish across the continent for many years, and it’s provided the opportunity to capture photographs resulting in numerous magazine covers and photo essays.

Summertime flow on the Rio San Antonio as it braids on the lower section heading into the Rio Petrohué. You can see how high the stream gets in winter.

Over the years, I’ve enjoyed fishing with George Cook, a well-known figure in the fly fishing and hunting industry – a true big fish and big game hunter. If you haven’t heard of him, you might not be deeply involved in the sport. 

One of the best rivers to fish in Chile’s Lake District is the Rio Petrohué, renowned for its trout and salmon.

There’s no reason not to fish there every day, as it suits every style of fishing. While there’s an old saying, “Never leave fish to find fish,” exploring small tributaries like the Rio San Antonio can yield unique experiences. This river can be challenging to access due to high water flows in spring and fall, but low water years reveal braided channels and better-targeted fishing spots. It’s not a stream many guides take clients to, making it more of a “guides’ day off” destination.

Low rain and water year isolate the trout to pools and pocket water.

Our “guides day off” brought us to the Rio San Antonio, venturing higher up the river where only a few locals and guides go. Located in the most northern part of Chile’s Patagonia, anglers here get peekaboo views of the year-round snow and ice capped Mt. Osorno. Tucked in and away from any roads, traffic and noise, both the main Petrohué and the San Antonio allow you to hike for miles beside carved out canyon walls surrounded by dense flora.

The narrow water limits most pools to one angler, offering chances at good fish hiding close to cover. While larger rivers might provide the opportunity to catch bigger fish, if you have a 3 to 5-weight rod with a floating line and a dry fly, the experience of hiking the river at the foot of the Andes can be just as rewarding.

Angler Nicole Darland hooks a rainbow while working upstream on the Rio San Antonio, Chile
Another rainbow about to be landed on the stream.
Angler Nicole Darland with a beautiful rainbow caught on a big foam dry. San Antonio river.
A chilean King Fisher sits on his stream side perch looking for a fish.
Small water means one-angler per run or pool. Nicole is up with George watching from the seating area.
A nice brown trout from the upper San Antonio river.
Angler George Cook looks over the flies that the local guides tie and use for this area.
George Cook about to lay down a cast in good looking holding water.
A beautiful brown comes to hand in the small water.
Close-up of a brown trout gill plate.
A beautiful brown comes to hand in the small water.

Contributed By

Jeff Edvalds

I’ve crashed, sunk or fallen out of just about every type of boat or floating device. Survived being trapped in a river under a bridge, thrown under a boat by a rogue wave and stuck in quicksand. I could go on and on, but as a fly fishing photographer, it’s really about the captured moments, spent in beautiful places, with water, fish and good friends. Be safe…And good shooting.

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