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Sunrise on the water. I actually caught more fish in full sun. Mornings and evening can be spent tending to the van, driving, buying supplies or just taking it easy.

North Island – Central Lakes

I live near the foothills of Yellowstone Park. March is not really springtime, it’s still cold. But it is a nice 75 degrees on the North Island of New Zealand, their early fall. After fishing NZ off and on for 51 years, I decided to do something new. I packed an Outcast Trinity backpacker float tube and flew to Auckland to fish lakes for big rainbows. The South Island was getting chilly, and I knew that the middle to northern part of the North Island would be like our September, as in perfect fishing weather. I got the float tube, fins, waders, tackle, large net, clothing and a sleeping bag all in one duffle bag that weighed in at 48.5 pounds. I went online and rented a peer to peer (like our TURO car rental service) van (around $350 US for a week).

Just a van. No kitchen and bed, just a van with two seats. Once I hit the road, I plugged in thrift stores and found a big Salvation Army. There, I outfitted the van with a mattress (quite clean), a blanket to cover it, a pillow, a towel and a cooler, all for $35 US. After stocking up on some food, mostly meat pies and Gatorade, I went to a Fishing & Hunting New Zealand store and got a few flies and some very good maps, dedicated to lakes on the North Island. 40 minutes later, I was in a lovely non-commercial campground, watching large trout rise. There were clean bathrooms, grass to the water’s edge, level spots to park the van and a half dozen apple trees that were loaded. I was then only six hours since leaving customs at the Auckland Airport.

Girthy! This was in the fall (in NZ), so these rainbows were in prime condition.

In minutes I was on the water. I brought three 6-weight rods. One had a floating line, one was set up with a clear camo, slow sink, and the last one had a super fast sinking line. I used all three about equally. I fished rather long leaders on the sinking lines, around ten feet, down to 4X fluoro, as the waters were very clear. The smelt (2.5 inch- sized skinny minnows) were being harassed by the big, four to ten pound trout on the surface. If it sounds like fun, it is. For eight days, I sat in a float tube while kicking from spot to spot. I often chased big trout blitzs, with smelt flying out of the water to evade rainbows built like linebackers. 

My well traveled Outcast Trinity backpacker float tube. The Summit is their latest, lightweight model.
Sunrise on the water. I actually caught more fish in full sun. Mornings and evenings can be spent tending to the van, driving, buying supplies or just taking it easy.
Locally called Smelt. This resident fish drives the trout crazy. If they are prone to migrate, those are called whitebait.
Great weather, no wind and fish taking a small, black leech. 4X was optimal in the crystal clear water.

There are lakes everywhere. I found a cluster of eight or so lakes, just minutes from each other. Some were shallow and quite fly friendly. Some were inland oceans, a bit big when the wind cane up. I did not catch a brown, but some lakes had monsters. There are lots of places to camp, some official camping places (free), and some were just a flat spot in the forest. Several days, I fished multiple lakes, and after more than a week of this, I never saw another angler. Because the fishing was all about large, quality fish, it wasn’t crazy fast action.

I probably averaged a fish every two hours. But, in one 30- minute stretch, I landed a ten and an eight pounder. When the smelt action slowed down, I went deeper with small leeches and dragonfly nymphs. On my second to last day, I fished until noon, then went back to the Salvation Army and donated my gear back to them. I went to a laundromat for washing and drying, got a hotel where every room had a natural hot springs hot tub, and then treated myself to a great dinner at an Irish pub. On the flight home I wondered why I waited 51 years to fly fish a lake in New Zealand (and no sand flies)!

This rainbow was chasing adult dragonflies, sometimes leaping two feet out of the water to eat one or knock it down. But it ate a small, thin minnow pattern that looks like Smelt. I took this photo 75 yards from my camper van.
Being alone and sometimes 400 yards away from land, my trusty iPhone came in handy for simple photos like this.
The nicest campground of my trip. 8 miles from a pub with good food, a store/gas station with ice, and a honey producer.
Where I got my three biggest fish, all over 8 pounds. A boat ramp and bathrooms made life nice. At times the surface was alive with a dozen trout blitzing smelt.
Just some rural pasture. Watch out for American and Canadian drivers on the wrong side of the road. Remember the old saying; ‘left is right’. Nothing makes you feel more stupid than walking up to the passengers door when you are the driver, for a whole week.
You will never be bored driving around New Zealand.
Twisty and sometimes very narrow, country roads. A local guy told me that the roads were so twisty, that you could ‘rear end yourself.’
Tree ferns. Never gets old.
Even an Irish pub. This one was in Rotorua.

Contributed By

Brian O’Keefe

If this kind of trip is of interest to you, just do what I did. Everything is online: lake info, licenses (over $200 for over a week), van rental (peer to peer), thrift stores, etc. This is DIY at its best. And you can add guided trips on the rivers, or do a week on the North Island and a week on the South Island. Both islands are very scenic. You might want to add a tarp to your packing, or buy one upon arrival. The tarp can be used to keep water from your float tube, off your sleeping bag, while driving. I can’t say it enough, please be really, really cognizant of the left side driving. My van was a stick shift and shifting left handed was a bit weird. And, I don’t know how many times I turned on the wipers when I meant to turn on the turn indicator. All the lakes I fished were good for swimming, which is a nice way of saying ‘taking a bath’. All the lakes I fished were never further than 20 minutes from a pub, restaurant, food truck or mini-mart. A credit or debit card works everywhere. Meat pies are OK cold. 
Brian O’Keefe – [email protected]

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